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TISSUE
Tissue is a textile fabric consisting of at least two thread systems, warp and weft, which cross each other at an angle of exactly or approximately 90° when viewed on the fabric surface.
Each of the two systems can be made up of several types of warp or weft (e.g. basic, pile and filling warp / basic, binding and filling weft). The warp threads run in the longitudinal direction of the fabric, parallel to the edge of the fabric, and the weft threads run in the transverse direction, parallel to the edge of the fabric.
The threads are mainly connected to the fabric by friction. In order for a fabric to be sufficiently non-slip, the warp and weft threads usually have to be woven relatively densely. That is why, with a few exceptions, the fabrics have a coherent appearance.
To sew fabric, positive displacement needles are always used and never a cutting point.
LEATHER, TARPS & FOILS
Leather, imitation leather, tarps and foils are closed textiles that have to be ""pierced"" for sewing. This is why needles with cutting tips are usually used for this.
Cutting tips penetrate the material much more easily than displacement tips and thus counteract resistance and heating.
Cutting points should never be used on woven and knitted fabrics, otherwise the threads can be cut, causing holes.
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Films (plastic film, artificial leather, oilcloth)quilt workGeorgette (Georgette Crepe also) (first name of the inventor's daughter)
Lightweight, plain-weave fabric with a sandy handle and crimped surface, made of silk, viscose filament, wool, cotton.
The fabric gets its character from very tightly twisted warp and weft yarn (crepon), with 2 threads of Z-twist alternating with 2 threads of S-twist.
Georgette (also crêpe Georgette) receives additional designations depending on the patterning, such as cloqué, façonné, frotté, pompon, quadrillé, rayé and reversible.
wax clothOilcloth, also called wax canvas or varnish cloth, refers to a waterproof fabric made of cotton, flax or jute, coated with varnish and oil paint, formerly widely used for packaging goods shipped by sea.
Crepe / Crépe(Crêpe = crimped, crinkled)
Crepe fabrics with a grainy, pebbled or sandy appearance and handle.
Depending on how the effect is produced, a distinction is made between true crepe made from crepe yarns, weave crepe in a crepe weave, embossed crepe (crêpe gaufré) and caustic (lye) crepe.
leather imitationImitation leathers, with or without a textile backing material.
BelsetaBelseta is a functional clothing textile made of microfiber fabric.
Lamé(interwoven with metal threads)
Fine metal threads wrapped with mohair, viscose filament or synthetic threads.
coated materialsMicrofiber fabricGeneral term for man-made fibers with a fineness of 0.1-1 dtex, i.e. 10,000m-100,000m weighs 1 gram.
Produced as a mono- or bicomponent fiber (M/F type). Used for imitation leathers on a woven or nonwoven base, or for climate-control fabrics.
Terms: Tactel, Trevira Finesse, etc.
brocadeThe term brocade comes from the Latin word broccare (to embroider).
Brocade is a jacquard-patterned, heavy silk fabric interwoven with metallic threads. There are also brocades made entirely of gold and silver threads. Brocade threads usually have a cotton or linen core wrapped with lamé. Today, mainly non-oxidizing effect threads (e.g. Lurex) are used. Some strikingly patterned silk fabrics, especially bedding and furnishing damasks with only occasional metallic weft threads, are also referred to as brocade.
NylonNylon was originally the brand name of E.I. du Pont de Nemours & Co. Inc., USA, for polyamide 6.6 (inventor W.H. Carothers, 1935). Today it is the generic name, with trailing numbers identifying the various types.
Changeantsequined fabricsFabric made of silk or viscose filament in a five- or seven-shaft warp satin weave, also known as satin de Chine.
Crêpe de ChineCrêpe de Chine is a lightly sized, taffeta-weave fabric with a fine grain, made from a grège warp and a silk crepe or viscose filament weft, or also from PES filament yarn.
PolyesterGroup 29 of textile raw materials according to the TKG (German Textile Labeling Act), for fibers made of linear macromolecules whose chain consists of at least 85% by weight of the ester of a diol with terephthalic acid.
There are two basic types, glycol terephthalate PES and cyclohexanedimethanol terephthalate PES, both produced by polycondensation.
By incorporating components that disrupt symmetry or increasing the degree of branching, chemically modified polyester with special properties is obtained.
Crincle / CrashCrinkle fabrics made from or containing cotton, with a soft crinkle effect in the warp direction.
poplinA trade term for a finely ribbed, plain-weave fabric made of cotton or viscose yarn with a fine, dense warp and a thick, less dense weft setting. Warp:weft ratio 2:1.
Full-twist poplin refers to a fabric in which twist yarn is used in both warp and weft.
In half-twist poplin, the warp consists of twist yarn and the weft of single yarn.
In imitation poplin, only single yarns are used in both warp and weft.
Poplin fabrics, with the appropriate construction, are used as shirting, dress, blouse and coat fabrics, as well as for tarpaulins and technical articles.
CuproCupro (abbr.: CUP), also known as cupra silk or copper fiber, is a textile fiber made from regenerated cellulose that belongs to the group of rayon fibers.
SilkGroup 4 of textile raw materials according to the TKG (German Textile Labeling Act), for fibers obtained exclusively from the cocoons of silk-spinning insects (i.e. not for indicating the form or presentation of textile raw materials as continuous filament yarn).
True natural silk (SE) consists of the threads expelled by the mulberry silkworm caterpillar (bombyx mori) when building its cocoon (pupating), 15 to 25 µm fine and 25 to 50 cN/tex strong, consisting of 75% fibroin (protein substance) and 25% sericin (gum, bast). There are about 80 species of silkworms, but only the tussah moth, the eri moth and the anaphe moth still have any significance. |
