Hemstitches
Hemstitch is a handwork technique used to decoratively finish fabric edges on plain-weave linen fabrics (including household linen such as tablecloths, bed sheets and aprons). It is one of the simpler variants of drawn-thread work.
The fabric edge is folded over twice, as is common when finishing hems. At the point where the first fold lies, several threads are drawn out parallel to the folded edge. This exposes part of the threads running crosswise to the hem. The sewing thread is anchored in the folded hem, then the sewing thread is looped around several (usually three to five) of the exposed threads and stitched back through the folded hem. Continuing this, wrapping the same number of cross threads each time, bundles the cross threads together so that small holes form along the hem. The sewing thread visually recedes against the holes.
This unobtrusiveness of the sewing thread was considered particularly desirable especially in the late 19th and early 20th century. In the course of the 20th century, hemstitch fell somewhat out of fashion again.