FAQ on Sewing Machine Needles

Q: Which needle size is the right one?

The finer the fabric and thread, the thinner the needle. The NM size states the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimetre: NM 80 = 0.80 mm. Rule of thumb: NM 60–70 for fine fabrics such as silk and batiste, NM 80–90 for medium fabrics such as cotton and linen, NM 100–110 for heavy fabrics such as denim, canvas or upholstery. The thread must fit completely into the long groove of the needle.

★ Needle guide · 42 answers

Sewing machine needles: clearly explained

Which needle for which fabric, what the colour bands mean, which system fits your machine – the most frequent questions from home sewing, studios and industry. Technical content based on SCHMETZ specifications.

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All Basics Fabrics & materials Special needles Industrial Changing & problems Ordering Tables

Basics

What is the difference between round shank and flat shank needles?

Flat shank needles are for household sewing machines, round shank needles for industrial and special machines. The shank is the thick upper end of the needle that is clamped into the needle bar.

Flat shank and round shank compared
	Flat shank	Round shank
Shape	One side flattened	Fully cylindrical
Inserting	The flat side sets the direction – inserting it wrongly is hardly possible	Aligned by hand: scarf facing the hook
Typical for	Household machines and household sergers, e.g. 130/705 H, ELx705	Industrial machines, e.g. DBx1, DPx5 (134), DCx27 (B-27)

The two shank types are not interchangeable. What counts is always the needle system specified by the machine manufacturer.

View all sewing machine needles

Basics

What does “130/705 H” on the needle pack mean?

130/705 H is the needle system of almost all household sewing machines: a needle with flat shank and scarf (“H”).

Equivalent designations are HAx1 and 15x1 H. A suffix indicates the specialisation, e.g. 130/705 H-J (jeans), H-S (stretch), H SUK (jersey), H-M (Microtex) or H-Q (quilting needle).

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Basics

What do the colour bands on SCHMETZ needles mean?

The upper colour band shows the needle type, the lower band the needle size. Universal needles and some special needles have only one band – the one for the size.

ShankTypeSizeBladeExample: blue at the top = jeans needle, purple at the bottom = NM 100

Table: SCHMETZ colour coding – upper band (needle type)
Needle type	Upper band	System
Universal needle	none	130/705 H
Stretch needle	yellow	130/705 H-S
Jersey needle	orange	130/705 H SUK
Jeans needle	blue	130/705 H-J
Leather needle	brown	130/705 H LL
Microtex needle	purple	130/705 H-M
Quilting needle	green	130/705 H-Q
Embroidery needle	red	130/705 H-E
Metallic needle	pink	130 MET
Topstitch needle	turquoise	130 N
Hemstitch needle (Wing)	none (wings on the blade)	130/705 H WING
Double eye needle	none	705 DE
Quick threading needle	none	705 HDK
Special needles (e.g. Super Stretch)	light grey	HAx1 SP, 130/705 H-PS, 705 B
Serger needles	black	ELx705 CF, ELx705 SUK CF

Table: SCHMETZ colour coding – lower band (needle size)
NM	SIZE (US)	Lower band
60	8	turquoise
65	9	light grey
70	10	green
75	11	pink
80	12	orange
90	14	blue
100	16	purple
110	18	yellow
120	19	brown
130	21	red

Source: SCHMETZ colour coding for household needles (schmetz.com). Colours on screen may differ slightly from the original. Type and size are also printed on every SCHMETZ pack.

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Basics

Which needle size is the right one?

The finer the fabric and thread, the thinner the needle. The NM size states the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimetre: NM 80 = 0.80 mm.

Rule of thumb: NM 60–70 for fine fabrics such as silk and batiste, NM 80–90 for medium fabrics such as cotton and linen, NM 100–110 for heavy fabrics such as denim, canvas or upholstery. The thread must fit completely into the long groove of the needle.

Match needle & thread

Basics

How do I convert needle sizes (NM, US size, thread)?

NM is the metric size (blade diameter in 1/100 mm), SIZE the American one. NM 80 equals SIZE 12. The higher the number, the thicker the needle and thread.

Table: needle size conversion NM ↔ US/Singer ↔ thread
NM	US / Singer	Blade	Lower band (SCHMETZ)	Thread size (Nm)	Typical fabrics
NM 60	8	0.60 mm	turquoise	Nm 120–150	Silk, chiffon, organza
NM 65	9	0.65 mm	light grey	Nm 120–150	Batiste, voile, lycra
NM 70	10	0.70 mm	green	Nm 120	Fine cotton, blouse fabrics, jersey
NM 75	11	0.75 mm	pink	Nm 100–120	Jersey, embroidery, quilts
NM 80	12	0.80 mm	orange	Nm 100	Cotton, linen, shirts
NM 90	14	0.90 mm	blue	Nm 80–100	Light denim, gabardine, faux leather
NM 100	16	1.00 mm	purple	Nm 50–80	Denim, canvas, leather
NM 110	18	1.10 mm	yellow	Nm 30–50	Heavy denim, upholstery, thick leather
NM 120	19	1.20 mm	brown	Nm 20–40	Sailcloth, tarpaulins (mostly industrial)
NM 130	21	1.30 mm	red	Nm 20–30	Straps, bags, saddlery (industrial)

Rule of thumb: the thread should fill about 40 % of the needle eye. For the thread count Nm: the higher, the finer the thread. Thread values are guidelines.

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Basics

When is a universal needle enough?

For most woven and many knitted fabrics of medium weight, such as cotton, linen or blends.

The universal needle (130/705 H) has a slightly rounded point and is the all-rounder. For jersey, stretch, denim, leather or microfibre, a special needle gives cleaner seams and fewer skipped stitches.

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Basics

What is the scarf and what is it for?

The scarf is the indentation on the back of the needle just above the eye. It gives the hook room to catch the thread loop reliably.

If the needle is inserted twisted or the needle system does not match the machine, the hook misses the loop – resulting in skipped stitches. The long groove on the front protects the thread as the needle penetrates.

Guide: the right sewing machine needle

Basics

What do suffixes such as SUK, KN, CF, TN or NIT in the article name mean?

The suffixes describe the point, version or coating of the needle. The basic system (e.g. 130/705 H or DBx1) stays the same.

Table: common suffixes in needle designations
Suffix	Meaning
R, SET	Normal round point
SPI	Acute round point (for dense and coated fabrics)
SES / SUK / SKF	Light / medium / heavy ball point
LL, LR, D, DH, S, P, DI	Cutting points for leather (see needle point table)
CR / CL	Point groove right / left (e.g. SUK CR)
KN	Slim needle against bursting of loops, without blade reinforcement
SF	Extra slim point and eye area for the finest knits, without blade reinforcement
GO / EO	Large eye / narrow eye (narrow eye: better loop security)
HR	Scarf chamfered on the right: the needle may be slightly twisted without the hook striking it
KR	Short point and bevelled scarf on the right
KK / LGK	Short shank / long shank
FHS	Sewing without hook adjustment (e.g. different needle sizes in one embroidery head)
ZWI / DRI	Twin / triple needle
WING / ZWIHO	Hemstitch needle / twin hemstitch needle
CF	Chrome Finish – chrome-plated version (e.g. ELx705 CF)
TN	Titanium nitride coating over hard chrome (gold-coloured, ultra-hard)
NIT	Nickel-Teflon: anti-adhesive coating with excellent gliding properties
BLUK	BLUKOLD coating (industrial)
GOLD, H-JT, H-ET, H-NT	SCHMETZ GOLD line with wear protection (household)
SU	Black anti-stick coating (SCHMETZ Black line, household)
SERV 7	Reinforced version: increased needle stability and reliable seams
SERV 6 / SERV 8	For multi-head embroidery machines: special scarf with reinforced blade / extremely reinforced blade

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Basics

Do SCHMETZ and Groz-Beckert needles fit the same machine?

Yes – what matters is the needle system, not the manufacturer. A DBx1 from SCHMETZ and a DBx1 from Groz-Beckert have the same dimensions.

Besides the system, check the needle size, point and, where applicable, coating. Designations can vary slightly between manufacturers; in the shop, common alternative designations are listed in the article name.

Find the right needle in the needle assistant

Basics

Which needle system fits my sewing machine?

Almost all household sewing machines use the 130/705 H system. Industrial machines need their own system depending on the machine class, e.g. DBx1 for flatbed lockstitch machines.

Table: needle system by machine type
Brand / machine type	Needle system	Other designations	Shank
Household sewing machines (incl. Bernina, Bernette, Brother, Elna, Janome, Pfaff, Husqvarna Viking, Singer, Toyota, W6, Gritzner)	130/705 H	HAx1, 15x1 H	Flat shank
Household serger / coverstitch	130/705 H, ELx705 CF or HAx1 SP – depending on model	ELx705 SUK CF, HAx1 SP SU	Flat shank
Industrial flatbed lockstitch (e.g. Juki DDL, Brother S-7000)	DBx1	1738, 16x231, 16x257, 287 WH	Round shank
Industrial overlock (e.g. Juki MO, Pegasus)	DCx27	B-27, MY 1023, UY 191 GS	Round shank
Industrial coverstitch / flatseam	UYx128 GAS	1280, 149x3, TVx3	Round shank
Post-bed and triple-feed machines (leather, upholstery)	134-35 (DPx35) or 135x17 (DPx17) – depending on model	2134-35 / SY 3355	Round shank
Twin-needle, bartack and buttonhole machines, among others	DPx5 (134)	135x5, 135x7	Round shank

Information for common models of each class. The operating manual or the label on the machine is always decisive.

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Fabrics & materials

Which needle do I need for stretch fabrics?

For knits such as jersey a jersey needle, for highly elastic fabrics with elastane a stretch needle.

The jersey needle (130/705 H SUK) has a medium ball point that pushes the loops aside instead of piercing them – so no ladders form. The stretch needle (130/705 H-S) also has a special eye and scarf; it prevents skipped stitches on lycra, swimwear or sportswear.

To the SCHMETZ jersey needle

Fabrics & materials

Which needle should I use for jeans?

A jeans needle (130/705 H-J) in NM 90 to 110.

It has a medium ball point and a reinforced blade. It therefore penetrates several layers of denim with much less force and without deflecting. For very thick flat-felled seams or frequent sewing, the wear-resistant GOLD jeans needle (130/705 H-JT) is a good choice.

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Fabrics & materials

Which needle is suitable for leather and faux leather?

For genuine leather the leather needle (130/705 H LL) with cutting point; for soft faux leather and coated fabrics a Microtex needle.

The cutting point cuts leather cleanly and creates a slightly slanted decorative stitch. On soft faux leather, the Microtex needle penetrates more precisely without tearing the coating. According to SCHMETZ, thick, hard faux leather is sewn with the leather needle in NM 100–110. Do not use on woven or knitted fabrics.

To the SCHMETZ leather needle

Fabrics & materials

Which needle for hook-and-loop tape, fusible interfacing and sticky materials?

A needle with anti-stick coating, e.g. the SCHMETZ Black Super Universal (130/705 H-SU).

The black coating prevents adhesive from sticking to the needle and eye. This reduces skipped stitches and thread breaks. For very fine, delicate fabrics there is the Black Super Fine needle.

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Fabrics & materials

Which sewing machine needle for which material?

Silk: Microtex NM 60–70 · Cotton: Universal NM 80 · Jersey: Jersey NM 70–90 · Denim: Jeans NM 90–110 · Leather: leather needle NM 80–110.

Table: needle size and type by material (household machines, system 130/705 H)
Material	Needle size (NM / US)	SCHMETZ needle type	Point	Thread (Nm)
Silk, chiffon, organza	NM 60–70 (8–10)	Microtex 130/705 H-M	slim, acute point	Nm 120–150
Batiste, voile, fine cotton	NM 60–70 (8–10)	Microtex H-M or Universal 130/705 H	acute / slightly rounded	Nm 120
Microfibre, taffeta, coated fabrics	NM 70–80 (10–12)	Microtex 130/705 H-M	slim, acute point	Nm 100–120
Cotton, poplin, linen (medium)	NM 80 (12)	Universal 130/705 H	slightly rounded	Nm 100
Jersey, T-shirt fabric, interlock	NM 70–90 (10–14)	Jersey 130/705 H SUK	medium ball point	Nm 100–120
Lycra, swimwear, elastane	NM 65–90 (9–14)	Stretch 130/705 H-S	medium ball point, special eye	Nm 100–120
Jeans, denim, canvas	NM 90–110 (14–18)	Jeans 130/705 H-J	medium ball point, reinforced blade	Nm 30–100
Upholstery fabric, sailcloth, tarpaulins	NM 100–110 (16–18)	Jeans H-J (household) or industrial	medium ball point	Nm 30–50
Faux leather (soft), coated fabrics	NM 80–100 (12–16)	Microtex 130/705 H-M	slim, acute point	Nm 50–100
Leather (thin)	NM 80–90 (12–14)	Leather 130/705 H LL	Cutting point	Nm 50–80
Leather (thick), suede, hard faux leather	NM 100–110 (16–18)	Leather 130/705 H LL	Cutting point	Nm 30–40
Quilts, several layers of cotton	NM 75–90 (11–14)	Quilting needle 130/705 H-Q	slim, slightly rounded point	Nm 50–100
Machine embroidery	NM 75–90 (11–14)	Embroidery needle 130/705 H-E	medium ball point, large eye	Embroidery thread Nm 40–60
Metallic and effect threads	NM 80–90 (12–14)	Metallic 130 MET	slightly rounded, elongated eye	Metallic thread
Decorative stitching with thick thread	NM 80–100 (12–16)	Topstitch 130 N	slightly rounded, elongated eye	Nm 30–40

Guide values. If in doubt, test on a scrap – or select the material in the needle & thread assistant.

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Special needles

What is a Microtex needle for?

For fine, densely woven and coated fabrics such as microfibre, silk, poplin or faux leather.

The Microtex needle (130/705 H-M) has a particularly slim, acute point. It penetrates precisely, reduces seam puckering and produces straight stitch lines – also ideal for precise edge stitching.

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Special needles

Which needle do I need for quilting?

The quilting needle (130/705 H-Q) in NM 75 or 90.

Its slim, slightly rounded point passes gently through several layers of fabric and batting. It is suitable for patchwork, cross seams and machine quilting.

To the SCHMETZ quilting needle

Special needles

Which needle is suitable for machine embroidery?

The embroidery needle (130/705 H-E) in NM 75 or 90.

It has a larger eye, a wide groove and a medium ball point. This protects delicate rayon or polyester embroidery threads and reduces thread breaks at high embroidery speeds. On dense fabrics or long projects, the GOLD embroidery needle (130/705 H-ET) lasts longer.

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Special needles

Which needle for free-motion embroidery and quilting without a presser foot?

The spring needle (130/705 H SPR). A spring around the blade takes over the role of the presser foot.

It holds the fabric down as the needle rises and prevents it from being lifted with the needle. This lets you embroider, darn or quilt free-motion without fitting a special foot.

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Special needles

Which needle should I use for metallic and thick decorative threads?

For metallic threads the metallic needle (130 MET), for thick decorative and topstitching threads the topstitch needle (130 N).

In the shop it is also listed as 130/705 H-MET. The metallic needle has an elongated eye so that the delicate thread does not fray or break. The topstitch needle also has an elongated eye and a pronounced groove, so thick or multiple threads run smoothly.

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Special needles

What is the difference between SCHMETZ GOLD and Black needles?

GOLD needles have a wear-resistant titanium nitride coating, Black needles an anti-stick coating. Standard household needles are chrome-plated.

GOLD (e.g. GOLD Jeans H-JT, GOLD Embroidery H-ET, Universal H TN) lasts longer and suits heavy fabrics, long projects and frequent sewers. Black (e.g. Black Super Universal H-SU) prevents adhesives from sticking – ideal for delicate fabrics and self-adhesive materials.

All SCHMETZ household needles

Special needles

Can every sewing machine sew with a twin needle?

No – only zigzag sewing machines with a transverse hook. Straight-stitch-only machines, including many older and semi-professional models, are not suitable.

You need a zigzag needle plate with a slotted needle hole, a zigzag foot and two top threads. The needle spacing must not exceed the machine’s maximum stitch width. For hems on jersey, the stretch twin needle is the right choice.

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Special needles

What does “2.5/80” on a twin needle mean?

The first number is the needle spacing in millimetres, the second the needle size in NM. 2.5/80 therefore means: 2.5 mm spacing, size NM 80.

The greater the spacing, the wider the double seam – and the greater your machine’s stitch width must be. Triple needles are designated the same way.

To the SCHMETZ universal triple needle

Special needles

What is a hemstitch (wing) needle used for?

For decorative openwork patterns (hemstitching, heirloom sewing) in light to medium, loosely woven fabrics.

The hemstitch needle (130/705 H WING) has “wings” on the sides of the blade that push the fabric threads apart. It is available in NM 100 and 120, and as a twin needle under the designation ZWIHO. Natural fabrics such as linen or cotton, possibly starched, work best.

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Special needles

Is there a needle that is particularly easy to thread?

Yes, the quick threading needle (705 HDK). The thread is slipped into the eye sideways through a slot instead of being threaded through.

This makes threading easier for people with limited eyesight or dexterity. For two threads in one needle – e.g. for shading effects – there is the double eye needle (705 DE).

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Special needles

Which needles does my serger or coverstitch machine need?

Depending on the model 130/705 H, ELx705 CF or HAx1 SP – the correct system is stated in the operating manual.

CF stands for Chrome Finish, i.e. the chrome-plated version. ELx705 has a second groove above the scarf that supports chain stitches and requires less thread tension. For jersey there is the ELx705 SUK CF. The Super Stretch needle HAx1 SP prevents skipped stitches on very elastic fabrics. If one needle breaks, it is best to replace both.

To the SCHMETZ serger needle ELx705 CF

Industrial

How do I find the needle system of my industrial machine?

Fastest via the old needle pack, the operating manual or the machine’s rating plate.

Common systems are DBx1 (flatbed lockstitch), DPx5 or 134 (incl. twin-needle and bartack machines), 134-35 or DPx35 (post-bed and upholstery machines), DCx27 or B-27 (overlock) and UYx128 GAS (coverstitch). Without this information, the needle assistant determines the system via brand and machine class.

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Industrial

Do industrial needles fit a household sewing machine?

No. Industrial needles usually have a round shank and different dimensions – they cannot be inserted correctly in household machines.

A wrong needle leads to skipped stitches, needle breakage or damage to the hook and needle plate. Always use the needle system intended for your machine.

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Industrial

Which needle point for which material?

Wovens: round point · Knits (jersey, knitwear): ball point · Leather: cutting point. The ball point pushes the loops aside, the cutting point cuts leather cleanly – its shape also determines the stitch appearance.

Table: needle points (SCHMETZ designation) by material
Point	Designation	Suitable for	Household equivalent
R	Normal round point	Woven fabrics in general	Universal 130/705 H (slightly rounded)
SPI	Acute round point	Microfibre, dense and coated fabrics	Microtex H-M
SES	Light ball point	Fine knits, blouses, shirts	–
SUK	Medium ball point	Jersey, knitwear, elastic fabrics, denim	Jersey H SUK, Stretch H-S, Jeans H-J
SKF	Heavy ball point	Coarse knits, elastic bands, corsetry	–
LL / LR	Cutting point left (135°) / right (45°)	Leather, leather-like materials; slanted decorative stitch	Leather H LL
D / DH	Triangular / half-triangular point	Thick, hard leather; particularly straight stitches	–
S	Spear (spade) point	Leather; straight, transverse stitches	–
P	Pearl point	Leather; decorative, pearl-like stitches	–
VR / VL	Four-facet point cutting right / left	Leather, shoe and saddlery work	–
DI	Diamond point	Very hard, thick leather	–

Choose the point in the needle assistant

Industrial

What are the benefits of coated industrial needles?

Longer service life or less sticking – depending on the coating. The standard is chrome.

Titanium nitride (suffix TN, also SERV 100, gold-coloured) is an ultra-hard layer over hard chrome – more than twice as hard as chrome. It ensures a long service life on abrasive materials such as denim, leather, technical textiles or foams. NIT (Nickel-Teflon) is anti-adhesive with excellent gliding properties and prevents finishes, adhesives or melting synthetic fibres from sticking to the needle and eye. There are also nickel and BLUKOLD (BLUK) versions.

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Industrial

What does SERV 7 mean for industrial needles?

SERV 7 is a reinforced SCHMETZ version for increased needle stability and reliable seams.

The needle deflects less in heavy, hard or multi-layer materials. This reduces skipped stitches and needle breakage, e.g. when sewing upholstery, straps or leather. SERV 7 is available for many systems such as DPx5 or 134-35.

SERV 7 needles in the shop

Industrial

Which industrial needle for fine knits and knitwear?

A ball point (SES or SUK), for very fine knits additionally in the slim KN or SF version.

KN needles are slim and prevent the loops from bursting. SF needles are extra slim in the point and eye area – for the finest knits. Neither has blade reinforcement, so both are more sensitive to deflection. For coarse knitwear and elastic bands, the heavy ball point SKF is suitable.

Example: DBx1 KN in the shop

Industrial

What do HR and KR mean for industrial needles?

HR means “scarf chamfered on the right”, KR “short point and bevelled scarf on the right”.

With HR needles (e.g. DBx1 HR), the hook does not strike the needle even if it is slightly twisted. Such versions are usually matched to specific machines – the machine manufacturer’s specification is decisive.

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Industrial

What is the CANU number?

The CANU is the SCHMETZ article number. The first digits in the format xx:xx identify the needle system, the following letters the point style.

Example: the code FB stands for the medium ball point SUK. The CANU is included in the btrade.ch article numbers. It helps to reorder a needle unambiguously – even if the system designation varies between manufacturers.

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Changing & problems

How often should I change the needle?

Regularly – as a rule of thumb after 6 to 8 hours of sewing or with every new project.

Change it immediately in case of frayed or breaking threads, skipped stitches, uneven stitches, puckering or a knocking sound when the needle penetrates. A blunt or bent needle can damage fabric and machine.

Replacement needles in the shop

Changing & problems

Why does my machine skip stitches?

It is usually the needle: wrong system, wrong point, inserted incorrectly or worn.

Check that the needle suits the machine and fabric, is pushed all the way up and that the scarf faces the hook. On elastic fabrics a stretch or Super Stretch needle often helps, on sticky materials a Black needle. If the problem persists, the machine should be adjusted.

To the SCHMETZ stretch needle

Changing & problems

Why does the needle keep breaking?

Common causes are a needle that is too thin, pulling the fabric or hitting pins.

Choose a needle size to suit the material, let the feed dogs guide the fabric and remove pins before they reach the presser foot. A wrong presser foot, a wrong needle plate or an incorrectly inserted bobbin can also deflect the needle.

Find the right needle size

Changing & problems

How do I insert a household needle correctly?

Flat side of the shank to the back, push the needle up as far as it goes, tighten the screw.

On most household machines the flat side faces the back. On models where the needle is inserted from the side, the orientation may differ – if in doubt, the operating manual applies.

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Changing & problems

How do I dispose of old sewing machine needles?

Collected in a closed, puncture-proof container with household waste.

Suitable options are the empty needle pack, a small tin or a jar with a lid. That way nobody gets hurt when emptying the bin.

New needles in the shop

Ordering

Why do some needles have a minimum order quantity?

Once a needle is no longer in stock, it is only manufactured in a production batch.

The minimum quantity is shown directly with the article. As long as there is stock, you can also order smaller quantities. Needles that are no longer produced are only available while stocks last.

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Ordering

Are needles that are no longer manufactured still available?

Yes, partly – while stocks last. Discontinued and rare needle systems can be found in the Rare needles category.

Search for the system shown on the old pack. If you cannot find it, we are happy to help – there is often an equivalent replacement system.

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Ordering

Are there terms for retailers, schools and industry?

Yes. Retailers, schools, studios and manufacturing companies have their own customer groups with discounts and net prices.

After activation, you automatically see your terms in the shop once you log in.

Information for business customers

Still unsure which needle fits?Send us your machine details – we will advise you personally.

Ask for advice →

Technical basis: manufacturer specifications from Ferd. SCHMETZ GmbH (colour coding, needle points, coatings, serger systems) and the btrade.ch range. Information without guarantee – your machine’s operating manual is always decisive.