Sewing matrix for SCHMETZ household sewing machine needles

Sewing matrix · SCHMETZ household sewing machine needles

Fabric, needle & thread – perfectly matched

Choose your fabric and see at a glance: the right SCHMETZ needle, point style, needle size, coating and suitable sewing threads from well-known brands.

1 Fabric (A–Z)

Alcantara / faux suedeiAlcantara / faux suedeExamples: Alcantara, Ultrasuede, microsuede, faux suede, microfibre velour fabrics
Properties: Very dense microfibre (mostly polyester/polyurethane) with a velvety surface. Stitch holes stay visible; mistakes are hard to unpick.
Tip: Use longer stitches (3–3.5 mm); don't pin – use clips or tape. Canvas / sailcloth / backpack fabriciCanvas / sailcloth / backpack fabricExamples: Sailcloth, canvas, Cordura, awning fabric, tent fabric, backpack fabric, upholstery fabric
Properties: Very dense, heavy and firm fabrics with high penetration resistance.
Tip: Sew slowly, use the handwheel over several layers; change the needle earlier if needed. Corduroy / wide-wale cordiCorduroy / wide-wale cordExamples: Wide-wale cord, needlecord, baby cord, velvet, velour, nicky velour
Properties: Pile fabric with ribs or pile. Mind the pile direction; layers shift easily.
Tip: Use a walking foot and cut all pieces in the same pile direction. Cotton / classic woven fabriciCotton / classic woven fabricExamples: Poplin, batiste, cretonne, shirting, patchwork cotton, linen, chambray, cotton sateen
Properties: Non-stretch, medium-weight woven fabric. Easy to sew – the standard case for the universal needle.
Tip: Match the needle size to the fabric: light fabrics NM 70, medium NM 80–90. Crinkle / crêpe fabricsiCrinkle / crêpe fabricsExamples: Crinkle, crêpe, crêpe de Chine, georgette crêpe, seersucker
Properties: Crinkled or creped, often lightweight fabrics. Threads shift easily; the texture should be preserved.
Tip: Don't press flat; sew with low thread tension and do a test seam. Faux leather / coated fabriciFaux leather / coated fabricExamples: Faux leather, imitation leather, vinyl, PU leather, oilcloth, coated cotton, film
Properties: Plastic coating on a textile backing. Every stitch leaves a visible hole; the surface sticks to the presser foot.
Tip: Use a Teflon or roller foot, longer stitches, don't pin. Fleece / polar fleeceiFleece / polar fleeceExamples: Polar fleece, microfleece, cuddle fleece, sweatshirt fabric, teddy plush
Properties: Bulky, slightly stretchy synthetic knit. Hardly sheds and does not fray.
Tip: Slightly longer stitches; for stretchy seams choose elastic thread or a stretch stitch. Hook-and-loop / adhesive interfacingiHook-and-loop / adhesive interfacingExamples: Self-adhesive hook-and-loop tape, fusible web, sticky embroidery stabiliser, spray-adhesive fixings
Properties: Adhesive builds up on the needle and eye, causing skipped stitches and thread breaks.
Tip: Use a non-stick coated needle (Black Super Universal); clean the needle after sewing. Jeans / denim (multi-layer)iJeans / denim (multi-layer)Examples: Denim, stretch denim, jeans twill, drill, gabardine, workwear
Properties: Sturdy, dense twill. Several layers overlap at flat-felled seams – a heavy load for the needle.
Tip: Sew slowly over layer changes or use a hump jumper. Leather (genuine smooth and suede)iLeather (genuine smooth and suede)Examples: Nappa, smooth leather, cowhide, goatskin, suede, nubuck
Properties: Non-woven natural material without grain line. Must be cut rather than displaced; stitch holes are permanent.
Tip: Long stitches (3.5–4 mm), test seam on a scrap; don't backstitch – tie off the threads. Metallic decorative stitching / effect threadsiMetallic decorative stitching / effect threadsExamples: Metallic threads, Lurex threads, effect threads for decorative stitching and embroidery
Properties: Delicate metallised effect threads with high abrasion in the eye – they split and break easily.
Tip: Sew slowly, reduce thread tension, let the spool unwind vertically. Silk / chiffon / organzaiSilk / chiffon / organzaExamples: Silk, chiffon, organza, georgette, habotai, satin, viscose chiffon
Properties: Very fine, often slippery fabrics. Coarse needles leave visible holes and snags.
Tip: Choose the finest needle, a short stitch length and place tissue paper underneath. Softshell / technical fabricsiSoftshell / technical fabricsExamples: Softshell, hardshell, membrane fabrics, rainwear fabric, laminate
Properties: Multi-layer wind- and water-repellent technical fabrics. Every stitch perforates the membrane.
Tip: Use as few stitches as possible, don't pin; seal seams with seam tape if needed. Swimwear / Lycra / spandexiSwimwear / Lycra / spandexExamples: Lycra, elastane, spandex, swimsuit fabric, dance and sports jersey, power mesh
Properties: Highly elastic knit with a high elastane content. Prone to skipped stitches because the fabric flexes as the needle enters.
Tip: Use elastic thread or a zigzag/stretch stitch; don't stretch the fabric while sewing.

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Alcantara / faux suede

Needle sizeNM 70 – 80

Microfibre fabric with a dense surface. Stitch holes tend to remain visible.

SCHMETZ Microtex 130/705 H-M

Point styleSPI/S SET – Acute round pointNeedle with a very slim, acute point. Enables precise piercing of densely woven and coated materials. Produces a clean, flawless seam and minimises seam puckering.

CoatingNickel- or chrome-platedUntil the end of 2020, the nickel-plated needle was the standard for household sewing machines. Since then SCHMETZ has been gradually converting production to chrome-plated.

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90	No. 100
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XPiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XPPolyester core-spun, all-purpose weight. For machine and hand sewing on cotton, knits and wovens; widest colour range. Needle (manufacturer): NM 70–80	All Purpose
Gütermann	AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer →	No. 100
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock.	No. 120
Superior Threads	So Fine! #50iSuperior Threads So Fine! #503-ply polyester, 50wt. Fine, smooth thread for sewing, quilting and as bobbin thread.	50wt

No suitable series: Aurifil, Scanfil, Sulky, WonderFil, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Canvas / sailcloth / backpack fabric

Needle sizeNM 90 – 110

Extremely dense, heavy fabric. High penetration resistance.

SCHMETZ GOLD Jeans 130/705 H-JT

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball pointNeedle with a medium ball point. More rounded than the small ball point SES.

CoatingTitanium nitride (TN) – GOLDThe titanium nitride coating improves needle service life at higher stitch counts and reduces needle smearing.

SCHMETZ Jeans 130/705 H-J

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball point

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 50 / Tkt 36
Amann Mettler	Extra StrongiAmann Mettler Extra Strong100% polyester, core-spun, No. 36. For denim, leather, upholstery, awnings and sun sails – hand and machine sewing. Needle (manufacturer): Topstitch NM 90	No. 36
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 50 / Tkt 36
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XP HeavyiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XP HeavyPolyester core-spun, heavy weight. For bold buttonholes, topstitching and upholstery indoors and outdoors. Needle (manufacturer): NM 100–110	Heavy
Gütermann	Extra stark M 782iGütermann Extra stark M 782100% polyester, No. 40. Particularly robust and tear-resistant – for heavily stressed seams, repairs, seams and topstitching in heavy fabrics. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 90–110View series at manufacturer → / Top StitchiGütermann Top Stitch100% polyester, No. 30. Thick thread for visible topstitching, decorative seams and buttonholes. Use sew-all thread in the bobbin. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 100–120View series at manufacturer →	No. 40 / No. 30
Scanfil	Organic Cotton 30/2iScanfil Organic Cotton 30/2100% organic Pima cotton (GOTS), heavier weight. For appliqué, free-motion quilting, decorative stitching and topstitching.	30/2 (decorative seam)
Sulky	Cotton 12iSulky Cotton 122-ply Egyptian cotton, 12wt. Thick thread for visible decorative stitching, topstitching and quilting – not for construction seams. Needle (manufacturer): Jeans/Topstitch NM 90–100	12wt (decorative seam)

No suitable series: Aurifil, Madeira, Superior Threads, WonderFil, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Corduroy / wide-wale cord

Needle sizeNM 80 – 100

Heavy pile fabric. Mind the pile direction when sewing.

SCHMETZ Universal 130/705 H

Point styleR/SET – Normal round pointPoint with a pointed conical bevel. The normal round point is the standard point style. On household needles it is used for the needles known as universal needles; usually no point suffix «R» is added to the system designation.

SCHMETZ Jeans 130/705 H-J

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball pointNeedle with a medium ball point. More rounded than the small ball point SES.

CoatingNickel- or chrome-plated

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 75
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90	No. 100
Aurifil	Mako CottoniAurifil Mako CottonLong-staple Egyptian cotton, mercerised and lustrous. 50wt (2-ply) for patchwork, quilting and appliqué; 40wt slightly heavier; 12wt for decorative stitching.	40wt
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 80
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XPiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XPPolyester core-spun, all-purpose weight. For machine and hand sewing on cotton, knits and wovens; widest colour range. Needle (manufacturer): NM 70–80	All Purpose
Gütermann	AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer →	No. 100
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock.	No. 120
Scanfil	Organic Cotton 50/2iScanfil Organic Cotton 50/2100% organic Pima cotton (extra-long staple, GOTS-certified), double-mercerised. For patchwork, sewing and quilting – lies flat in the seam allowance.	50/2
Sulky	Poly DecoiSulky Poly DecoPolyester, 40wt. Strong thread for durable seams and embroidery – e.g. children's wear, sportswear and uniforms. Needle (manufacturer): Embroidery NM 80–90	40wt
Superior Threads	OmniiSuperior Threads Omni2-ply core-spun (polyester around a polyester core), 40wt. Strong all-round thread for sewing, quilting and serging.	40wt
WonderFil	KonfettiiWonderFil KonfettiEgyptian cotton, 50wt. Cotton sewing thread for patchwork, quilting and sewing.	50wt

No suitable series: YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Cotton / classic woven fabric

Needle sizeNM 70 – 90

Standard woven fabric for shirts, blouses and patchwork.

SCHMETZ Universal 130/705 H

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90 / Silk-Finish CottoniAmann Mettler Silk-Finish Cotton100% Egyptian cotton, mercerised, No. 50. For sewing, quilting and embroidery. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90	No. 100 / No. 50
Aurifil	Mako CottoniAurifil Mako CottonLong-staple Egyptian cotton, mercerised and lustrous. 50wt (2-ply) for patchwork, quilting and appliqué; 40wt slightly heavier; 12wt for decorative stitching.	50wt
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XPiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XPPolyester core-spun, all-purpose weight. For machine and hand sewing on cotton, knits and wovens; widest colour range. Needle (manufacturer): NM 70–80	All Purpose
Gütermann	AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer → / Natur-Baumwolle C Ne 50iGütermann Natur-Baumwolle C Ne 50100% mercerised cotton, Ne 50/3. For quilting, patchwork, decorative seams and seams on cotton fabrics. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer →	No. 100 / Ne 50
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock. / CotonaiMadeira CotonaLong-staple Egyptian cotton, mercerised. No. 50 for patchwork and quilting, No. 30 for visible decorative stitching and topstitching, No. 80 for fine work.	No. 120 / No. 50
Scanfil	Organic Cotton 50/2iScanfil Organic Cotton 50/2100% organic Pima cotton (extra-long staple, GOTS-certified), double-mercerised. For patchwork, sewing and quilting – lies flat in the seam allowance.	50/2
Sulky	Poly DecoiSulky Poly DecoPolyester, 40wt. Strong thread for durable seams and embroidery – e.g. children's wear, sportswear and uniforms. Needle (manufacturer): Embroidery NM 80–90	40wt
Superior Threads	MasterPieceiSuperior Threads MasterPiece3-ply Egyptian extra-long-staple cotton, 50wt. For patchwork, sewing and quilting. / OmniiSuperior Threads Omni2-ply core-spun (polyester around a polyester core), 40wt. Strong all-round thread for sewing, quilting and serging.	50wt / 40wt
WonderFil	KonfettiiWonderFil KonfettiEgyptian cotton, 50wt. Cotton sewing thread for patchwork, quilting and sewing.	50wt

No suitable series: YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Crinkle / crêpe fabrics

Needle sizeNM 70 – 80

Irregular, textured surface. Threads shift easily.

SCHMETZ Universal 130/705 H

SCHMETZ Microtex 130/705 H-M

CoatingNickel- or chrome-plated

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90	No. 100
Aurifil	Mako CottoniAurifil Mako CottonLong-staple Egyptian cotton, mercerised and lustrous. 50wt (2-ply) for patchwork, quilting and appliqué; 40wt slightly heavier; 12wt for decorative stitching.	50wt
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XP FineiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XP FinePolyester core-spun (filament core wrapped with polyester), fine weight. For lingerie, bridal wear, silk, organza and sheer fabrics – prevents seam puckering. Needle (manufacturer): NM 60–70	Fine
Gütermann	AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer →	No. 100
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock.	No. 120
Scanfil	Organic Cotton 50/2iScanfil Organic Cotton 50/2100% organic Pima cotton (extra-long staple, GOTS-certified), double-mercerised. For patchwork, sewing and quilting – lies flat in the seam allowance.	50/2
Superior Threads	So Fine! #50iSuperior Threads So Fine! #503-ply polyester, 50wt. Fine, smooth thread for sewing, quilting and as bobbin thread.	50wt
WonderFil	KonfettiiWonderFil KonfettiEgyptian cotton, 50wt. Cotton sewing thread for patchwork, quilting and sewing.	50wt

No suitable series: Sulky, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Faux leather / coated fabric

Needle sizeNM 80 – 100

Tough synthetic layer on a textile backing. The wrong needle can perforate or melt it.

SCHMETZ Microtex 130/705 H-M

SCHMETZ Leather 130/705 H LL

Point styleLL/LLS/NTW/LLCR/LLCL – Left-cutting point 135°Cutting point with a lens-shaped incision. The incision is made at a 135° angle to the seam direction.

CoatingNickel- or chrome-plated

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 75
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90 / Extra StrongiAmann Mettler Extra Strong100% polyester, core-spun, No. 36. For denim, leather, upholstery, awnings and sun sails – hand and machine sewing. Needle (manufacturer): Topstitch NM 90	No. 100 / No. 36
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 80
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XPiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XPPolyester core-spun, all-purpose weight. For machine and hand sewing on cotton, knits and wovens; widest colour range. Needle (manufacturer): NM 70–80 / Dual Duty XP HeavyiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XP HeavyPolyester core-spun, heavy weight. For bold buttonholes, topstitching and upholstery indoors and outdoors. Needle (manufacturer): NM 100–110	All Purpose / Heavy
Gütermann	AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer → / Extra stark M 782iGütermann Extra stark M 782100% polyester, No. 40. Particularly robust and tear-resistant – for heavily stressed seams, repairs, seams and topstitching in heavy fabrics. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 90–110View series at manufacturer →	No. 100 / No. 40
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock.	No. 120
Superior Threads	OmniiSuperior Threads Omni2-ply core-spun (polyester around a polyester core), 40wt. Strong all-round thread for sewing, quilting and serging.	40wt

No suitable series: Aurifil, Scanfil, Sulky, WonderFil, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Fleece / polar fleece

Needle sizeNM 80 – 90

Thick, stretchy knit. Friction can heat up the needle.

SCHMETZ Jersey 130/705 H SUK

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball pointNeedle with a medium ball point. More rounded than the small ball point SES.

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 75
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90 / SeraflexiAmann Mettler Seraflex100% polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), No. 120, approx. 65% elongation. Elastic thread for jersey, sweatshirt fabric, cuffs, lingerie and sportswear – straight stitch and overlock. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–80	No. 100 / No. 120
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XPiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XPPolyester core-spun, all-purpose weight. For machine and hand sewing on cotton, knits and wovens; widest colour range. Needle (manufacturer): NM 70–80	All Purpose
Gütermann	AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer → / MaraflexiGütermann Maraflex100% polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), No. 120. Highly elastic thread for stretchy straight-stitch seams (up to 80% seam stretch) – necklines, cuffs, elastic fabrics. Use as top and bobbin thread. Needle (manufacturer): Jersey/Stretch NM 70–80View series at manufacturer →	No. 100 / No. 120
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock.	No. 120
Sulky	Poly DecoiSulky Poly DecoPolyester, 40wt. Strong thread for durable seams and embroidery – e.g. children's wear, sportswear and uniforms. Needle (manufacturer): Embroidery NM 80–90	40wt
Superior Threads	OmniiSuperior Threads Omni2-ply core-spun (polyester around a polyester core), 40wt. Strong all-round thread for sewing, quilting and serging.	40wt
YLI	Woolly NyloniYLI Woolly Nylon100% nylon (textured). Soft, very stretchy with good recovery – for overlock seams, rolled hems and stretch fabrics.	Overlock

No suitable series: Aurifil, Scanfil, WonderFil

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Hook-and-loop / adhesive interfacing

Needle sizeNM 80 – 100

Self-adhesive materials or hook-and-loop tape. Adhesive clogs the needle eye.

SCHMETZ Black Super Universal 130/705 H-SU

CoatingNickel Teflon (NIT) – BLACKSpecial anti-adhesive coating with excellent sliding properties, high abrasion resistance, a particularly smooth and therefore low-friction surface and high corrosion resistance.

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 75
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90	No. 100
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 80
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XPiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XPPolyester core-spun, all-purpose weight. For machine and hand sewing on cotton, knits and wovens; widest colour range. Needle (manufacturer): NM 70–80	All Purpose
Gütermann	AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer → / Extra stark M 782iGütermann Extra stark M 782100% polyester, No. 40. Particularly robust and tear-resistant – for heavily stressed seams, repairs, seams and topstitching in heavy fabrics. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 90–110View series at manufacturer →	No. 100 / No. 40
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock.	No. 120
Superior Threads	OmniiSuperior Threads Omni2-ply core-spun (polyester around a polyester core), 40wt. Strong all-round thread for sewing, quilting and serging.	40wt

No suitable series: Aurifil, Scanfil, Sulky, WonderFil, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Jeans / denim (multi-layer)

Needle sizeNM 90 – 110

Very sturdy, dense fabric. Several layers at flat-felled seams demand great needle stability.

SCHMETZ GOLD Jeans 130/705 H-JT

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball pointNeedle with a medium ball point. More rounded than the small ball point SES.

CoatingTitanium nitride (TN) – GOLDThe titanium nitride coating improves needle service life at higher stitch counts and reduces needle smearing.

SCHMETZ Jeans 130/705 H-J

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball point

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 50 / Tkt 36
Amann Mettler	Extra StrongiAmann Mettler Extra Strong100% polyester, core-spun, No. 36. For denim, leather, upholstery, awnings and sun sails – hand and machine sewing. Needle (manufacturer): Topstitch NM 90	No. 36
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 50 / Tkt 36
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XP HeavyiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XP HeavyPolyester core-spun, heavy weight. For bold buttonholes, topstitching and upholstery indoors and outdoors. Needle (manufacturer): NM 100–110	Heavy
Gütermann	DenimiGütermann Denim100% polyester, No. 50. For seams, flat-felled seams and topstitching in medium to heavy denim and other firm fabrics. Needle (manufacturer): Jeans NM 90–110View series at manufacturer → / Top StitchiGütermann Top Stitch100% polyester, No. 30. Thick thread for visible topstitching, decorative seams and buttonholes. Use sew-all thread in the bobbin. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 100–120View series at manufacturer →	No. 50 / No. 30
Scanfil	Organic Cotton 30/2iScanfil Organic Cotton 30/2100% organic Pima cotton (GOTS), heavier weight. For appliqué, free-motion quilting, decorative stitching and topstitching.	30/2 (decorative seam)
Sulky	Cotton 12iSulky Cotton 122-ply Egyptian cotton, 12wt. Thick thread for visible decorative stitching, topstitching and quilting – not for construction seams. Needle (manufacturer): Jeans/Topstitch NM 90–100	12wt (decorative seam)

No suitable series: Aurifil, Madeira, Superior Threads, WonderFil, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Leather (genuine smooth and suede)

Needle sizeNM 90 – 120

Non-woven, solid natural material. It has to be cut because it does not stretch.

SCHMETZ Leather 130/705 H LL

Point styleLL/LLS/NTW/LLCR/LLCL – Left-cutting point 135°Cutting point with a lens-shaped incision. The incision is made at a 135° angle to the seam direction.

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Anefil NyloniA&E (American & Efird) Anefil NylonBonded polyamide multifilament, Tex 70. Very abrasion- and seam-resistant – for leather, bags and upholstery.	Tex 70
Amann Mettler	Extra StrongiAmann Mettler Extra Strong100% polyester, core-spun, No. 36. For denim, leather, upholstery, awnings and sun sails – hand and machine sewing. Needle (manufacturer): Topstitch NM 90	No. 36
Coats	NylbondiCoats NylbondBonded polyamide 6.6 (continuous filament), very tear- and abrasion-resistant. For shoes, bags, luggage, leather and upholstery.	—
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XP HeavyiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XP HeavyPolyester core-spun, heavy weight. For bold buttonholes, topstitching and upholstery indoors and outdoors. Needle (manufacturer): NM 100–110	Heavy
Gütermann	Extra stark M 782iGütermann Extra stark M 782100% polyester, No. 40. Particularly robust and tear-resistant – for heavily stressed seams, repairs, seams and topstitching in heavy fabrics. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 90–110View series at manufacturer → / Top StitchiGütermann Top Stitch100% polyester, No. 30. Thick thread for visible topstitching, decorative seams and buttonholes. Use sew-all thread in the bobbin. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 100–120View series at manufacturer →	No. 40 / No. 30

No suitable series: Aurifil, Madeira, Scanfil, Sulky, Superior Threads, WonderFil, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Metallic decorative stitching / effect threads

Needle sizeNM 80 – 90

Sewing with delicate metallised foil threads. Very high thread abrasion.

SCHMETZ Metallic 130/705 H-MET

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
Amann Mettler	MetalliciAmann Mettler MetallicMetallic effect thread, 55% polyester wrap on a 45% polyamide core, No. 40. For machine embroidery, badges and quilting with a shimmering effect. Needle (manufacturer): NM 70–80	No. 40
Coats	Sylko MetalliciCoats Sylko MetallicFilament yarn wrapped with metallised foil, Tkt 120. Mainly for machine embroidery, badges and logos. Needle (manufacturer): NM 65–75View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Madeira	FS No. 40iMadeira FS No. 40Metallic embroidery thread with a polyamide core and silver wrap. For machine embroidery and decorative stitching at high speed. Needle (manufacturer): NM 65–75	No. 40
Sulky	Original MetalliciSulky Original MetallicRound, twisted metallic fibres on a strong core. For decorative stitching – sew slowly and use a soft stabiliser. Needle (manufacturer): Metallic/Topstitch NM 90	—
Superior Threads	MetallicsiSuperior Threads MetallicsMetallic effect thread, 40wt. For embroidery, quilting and decorative stitching.	40wt
WonderFil	SpotliteiWonderFil SpotliteRayon core with metallic wrap, 40wt. For decorative stitching and embroidery with metallic shine.	40wt

No suitable series: A&E (American & Efird), Aurifil, Coats & Clark, Gütermann, Scanfil, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Silk / chiffon / organza

Needle sizeNM 60 – 70

Very fine, dense woven fabric. Normal needles leave permanent holes.

SCHMETZ Microtex 130/705 H-M

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90	No. 100
Aurifil	Mako CottoniAurifil Mako CottonLong-staple Egyptian cotton, mercerised and lustrous. 50wt (2-ply) for patchwork, quilting and appliqué; 40wt slightly heavier; 12wt for decorative stitching.	50wt
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XP FineiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XP FinePolyester core-spun (filament core wrapped with polyester), fine weight. For lingerie, bridal wear, silk, organza and sheer fabrics – prevents seam puckering. Needle (manufacturer): NM 60–70	Fine
Gütermann	Seide S 303iGütermann Seide S 303100% silk, No. 100. For elegant seams, topstitching and decorative stitching on fine fabrics. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–80View series at manufacturer → / AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer →	No. 100
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock.	No. 120
Sulky	PolyLiteiSulky PolyLiteTrilobal polyester filament, 60wt. Very fine thread for lingerie, fine appliqué and as bobbin thread. Needle (manufacturer): Embroidery NM 75	60wt
Superior Threads	So Fine! #50iSuperior Threads So Fine! #503-ply polyester, 50wt. Fine, smooth thread for sewing, quilting and as bobbin thread.	50wt
YLI	Silk #100iYLI Silk #100100% silk, 2-ply, 100wt. Ultra-fine thread for fine fabrics, appliqué and quilting.	100wt

No suitable series: Scanfil, WonderFil

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Softshell / technical fabrics

Needle sizeNM 80 – 90

Multi-layer laminate with membrane. Needle heat can damage the membrane.

SCHMETZ Black Super Universal 130/705 H-SU

SCHMETZ Microtex 130/705 H-M

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
A&E (American & Efird)	Perma CoreiA&E (American & Efird) Perma Core100% polyester, core-spun (wrapped polyester core). Industrial sewing thread for apparel, denim and home textiles. Ticket 120 = Tex 24, 75 = Tex 40, 50 = Tex 60, 36 = Tex 80.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 75
Amann Mettler	SeraloniAmann Mettler Seralon100% polyester, core-spun, No. 100. All-purpose thread for almost all fabrics and seams – cotton, synthetics, blends, linen, silk. Needle (manufacturer): NM 80–90	No. 100
Coats	EpiciCoats EpicPolyester core-spun with a high-strength core: allows finer threads and needles with the same seam strength. Industrial thread for apparel from silk to denim, workwear and swimwear.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 80
Coats & Clark	Dual Duty XPiCoats & Clark Dual Duty XPPolyester core-spun, all-purpose weight. For machine and hand sewing on cotton, knits and wovens; widest colour range. Needle (manufacturer): NM 70–80	All Purpose
Gütermann	AllesnäheriGütermann Allesnäher100% polyester, size No. 100. The all-purpose thread for hand and machine sewing: seams, topstitching and decorative seams on woven fabrics and many other materials. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–90View series at manufacturer →	No. 100
Madeira	AerofiliMadeira Aerofil100% polyester, core-spun, No. 120, matt. All-round thread for all fabric types, quilting, decorative seams as well as overlock and coverlock.	No. 120
Superior Threads	So Fine! #50iSuperior Threads So Fine! #503-ply polyester, 50wt. Fine, smooth thread for sewing, quilting and as bobbin thread.	50wt

No suitable series: Aurifil, Scanfil, Sulky, WonderFil, YLI

2 SCHMETZ needle recommendation Swimwear / Lycra / spandex

Needle sizeNM 65 – 75

Highly elastic knit. A high elastane content easily causes skipped stitches.

SCHMETZ Super Stretch HAx1 SP

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball pointNeedle with a medium ball point. More rounded than the small ball point SES.

CoatingChromeThe chrome coating protects against wear and corrosion. The surface is smooth and is gentle on fabric and thread.

SCHMETZ Black Super Stretch HAx1 SP SU

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball point

SCHMETZ Stretch 130/705 H-S

Point styleSUK/M BALL/SI – Medium ball point

3 Suitable sewing threads (A–Z)

Proven thread series from well-known brands – available in Europe and worldwide. The i shows material and properties of each series.

Brand	Recommended series	Thread size
Amann Mettler	SeraflexiAmann Mettler Seraflex100% polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), No. 120, approx. 65% elongation. Elastic thread for jersey, sweatshirt fabric, cuffs, lingerie and sportswear – straight stitch and overlock. Needle (manufacturer): Universal NM 70–80	No. 120
Coats	EloflexiCoats EloflexStretch thread with high extensibility and good seam strength for elastic seams – sportswear, swimwear, stretch jeans, underwear. For lockstitch use as top and bobbin thread.View series at manufacturer →	Tkt 120
Gütermann	MaraflexiGütermann Maraflex100% polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), No. 120. Highly elastic thread for stretchy straight-stitch seams (up to 80% seam stretch) – necklines, cuffs, elastic fabrics. Use as top and bobbin thread. Needle (manufacturer): Jersey/Stretch NM 70–80View series at manufacturer →	No. 120
YLI	Woolly NyloniYLI Woolly Nylon100% nylon (textured). Soft, very stretchy with good recovery – for overlock seams, rolled hems and stretch fabrics.	Overlock

No suitable series: A&E (American & Efird), Aurifil, Coats & Clark, Madeira, Scanfil, Sulky, Superior Threads, WonderFil

Point styles and coatings according to SCHMETZ product data on btrade.ch · Thread data according to the manufacturers · Guide values – if in doubt, test on a scrap first.

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