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Cord / Kord Firm fabrics with ribs created by the cord (float, hollow-weft) weave.
In lengthwise cord (hollow weft), the first weft thread, for example, binds with 8 warp threads in a plain weave and then floats under the next eight. The second weft thread floats under the first 8 warp threads and binds with the next eight. In crosswise cord, the warp threads work in a similar way. In corduroy velvet, the pile threads form the rib (ribbed velvet, Genoa cord, Manchester, furnishing cord) and, when cut, a velvet-like surface (weft velvet).
Further cord designations arise from the raw material, e.g. cotton, half-wool or wool cord, from the yarn type (e.g. stretch cord, twisted-yarn cord) and from the use (e.g. riding cord).
Cord is classified by number of ribs per 10cm: cable cord 8, farmers' cord 10 to 26, Genoa cord 27 to 40, fine cord over 41. Other classification: wide-wale, mid-wale, fine-wale ...
TulleWoven fabric with continuous warp threads and just as many weft threads running diagonally to them, which wrap around the warp threads. The weft threads are wound on small metal bobbins (bobbin), which, as in braiding, perform a full wrap (whole twist) around each warp thread as they travel from left to right and back again. In addition to these binding weft threads, at least a second weft thread system must be present for patterning; complicated patterns require further pattern thread systems; these are controlled by Jacquard machines.
Bobbinet tulle consists of fine cotton twist yarn or synthetic fibre materials. Its quality is determined by the material and the number of cells per English square inch. These are counted from top left to bottom left and then diagonally to top right, with the bottom-left cell counted twice.
The word tulle is derived from the French town of Tulle. A distinction is made between fine and coarse tulle, and plain and patterned tulle. Of the numerous types of tulle, the following may be mentioned here:
- Architect's tulle, with particularly large grid-like cells
- Double-tie (double binding), tulle with a full pattern on both sides
- Double-action, with relief-like appearing pattern
- Pea tulle, plain tulle with honeycomb-(diamond-)shaped cells
- Florentine tulle, fine pea tulle, embroidered with patterns
- Filet tulle, made of weft threads running at right angles to the warp threads and a further pattern-thread (filet-thread) system
- Grid tulle, with square cells
- Relief tulle, with weft threads running back and forth over several warp threads
- Single-tie (simple binding), flat patterned tulle
- Swiss tulle, with various fine weft threads
- Lace tulle (tulle lace), imitation of bobbin-made Valenciennes lace
- Raschel tulle, warp-knitted tulle produced on the Raschel machine with thick lengthwise and fine crosswise threads
ShirtOrganzaA veil-like fabric made of tightly twisted silk yarn, which gets a crisp handle from retaining the silk gum.
Organza imitations are made from man-made fibers that are opalized with swelling chemicals.
Crêpe de ChineCrêpe de Chine is a lightly sized, taffeta-weave fabric with a fine grain, made from a grège warp and a silk crepe or viscose filament weft, or also from PES filament yarn.
Velours(French, from Latin villosus = shaggy, soft, velvety)
General term for velvets and velvet-like fabrics with a short, upright pile made of cut pile loops (velours frisé = crimped) or uncut pile (velours épinglé = pin-looped).
Also a general term for fabrics with a raised, sheared and brushed surface (velour blanket).
There are countless name combinations with velours, of which only a few can be mentioned here:
By raw material
- Velours de coton
- Velours de laine
- Velours de lin
- Velours de soie
By manufacturing method
- Velours broché
- Velours façonné
- Velours figuré
- Velours gaufré
- Velours moiré
- Velours rayé
- Velours rips
- Velours uni
Fabrics with a velour surface include, for example, monkey fur fabric, duvetine, velotine.
Velours is also used to describe a dense, raised and sheared knit fabric, e.g. Raschel velour. Furthermore, a distinction is made between individual pile surfaces according to pile height. Depending on the pile height, the following classification applies:
- Velvet up to 2mm
- Velours from 2 to 4 mm
- Plush over 4 mm
JacquardCollective term for all large-patterned fabrics with weave-based patterning, produced with the help of jacquard technology on a jacquard loom.
Its complicated mechanism allows the weaving of almost unlimitedly large patterns (flowers, leaves, fictional themes), which cannot be achieved on shaft looms. Each warp thread has its own control, enabling the alternation of different weave variants.
Typical jacquard fabrics are damask, brocade and furnishing fabric. The term is derived from the name of the French inventor of this loom, J.M. Jacquard.
Pannesamt(Panné: French word for panne velvet)
Velvet with a long, flattened pile, highly glossy (mirror velvet).
Crincle / CrashCrinkle fabrics made from or containing cotton, with a soft crinkle effect in the warp direction.
Viscose(CV), group 23 of textile raw materials according to the TKG (German Textile Labeling Act), for regenerated cellulose fibers produced by the viscose process.
The viscous spinning mass obtained from pulp is an intermediate product of the viscose process. Wood pulp is converted in sheet form with 18% caustic soda into soda (alkali) cellulose, which is shredded and then stored in maturing containers. The matured alkali cellulose is mixed with carbon disulfide in sulfiding drums (churns), producing cellulose xanthate, which dissolves in caustic soda to form viscose.
Crepe / Crépe(Crêpe = crimped, crinkled)
Crepe fabrics with a grainy, pebbled or sandy appearance and handle.
Depending on how the effect is produced, a distinction is made between true crepe made from crepe yarns, weave crepe in a crepe weave, embossed crepe (crêpe gaufré) and caustic (lye) crepe.
SuitsFur imitation (Funfur)Imitations of real furs produced on weaving or circular knitting machines with special attachments.
Terms: funfur, astrakhan, broadtail, lambskin, nutria, ocelot, seal, mink, Persian lamb, etc.
Double FaceFabrics with different colors and/or patterns on both sides of the fabric. Used for tablecloths, tunics, summer dresses, scarves, etc.
Double face therefore simply refers to the difference between the two sides, not the material the fabric is made of!
Voile(French = veil)
Light, plain-woven, grid-like, round-set fabric made of smooth, highly twisted yarns (fibre-free, gassed, singed).
Full voile consists of voile twist yarns in both warp and weft, while in half voile only the warp is made of voile twist yarn and the weft of voile yarn. Voile imitation has voile yarn in both warp and weft. Silk voile is a warp rib with a dense silk warp and cotton weft. Voile is also produced brocaded and embroidered.
The following terms relating to voile are also common.
- Voile-barré, full or half voile patterned with satin stripes or checks.
- Voile-broché, brocaded full or half voile.
- Voile-brodé, voile decorated with embroidery.
- Voile-écossais, yarn-dyed patterned full or half voile
- Voile-Etamine, full or half voile woven in leno weave
- Voile-linon, finest voile
- Voile-ombré, shadow voile
- Voile-quadrillé, voile with yarn-dyed check pattern
- Voile-Marquisette, single-coloured silk voile in simple leno weave
- Voile-ondulé, voile woven with a reed that has partly slanted dents. Raising and lowering the reed creates wave-like shifted warp thread layers in the fabric.
Lavabel / Lavable(Lavable = washable)
Delicate, fine-threaded crepe fabrics made of silk or man-made fibers in taffeta (plain) weave, solid-colored or printed (hand or roller printed), also hand-painted (crêpe/crêpe lavable).
BatisteBatiste is a fine-threaded, lightweight plain-weave fabric, usually made of cotton or a linen blend.
PolyesterGroup 29 of textile raw materials according to the TKG (German Textile Labeling Act), for fibers made of linear macromolecules whose chain consists of at least 85% by weight of the ester of a diol with terephthalic acid.
There are two basic types, glycol terephthalate PES and cyclohexanedimethanol terephthalate PES, both produced by polycondensation.
By incorporating components that disrupt symmetry or increasing the degree of branching, chemically modified polyester with special properties is obtained.
feltFelt is a sheet-like or three-dimensional structure made of feltable fibers, especially hair and wool.
According to DIN 61205, a distinction is made between:
1. Needle felt: Created by repeatedly inserting and withdrawing a large number of needles and barbs into a fiber mass (fiber web), which causes the fibers to interlock (mat together).
2. Fulled felt: Created by fulling and pressing a tangled fiber mass (felt fleece) of wool (wool felt) or other animal hair (hair felt) or a hair-wool blend (mixed felt).
3. Woven felt: Created by laying or blowing animal hair (on one or both sides) onto a wool fabric, followed by felting and fulling.
4. Felt cloth: Created from a fabric of feltable fibers that is subjected to a felting process.
woven furWoven fur is a fur imitation (faux fur) related to velvet and plush, with a high pile.
Leatherlinen fabric(also linen, linon)
Originally, linen is a collective term for products made from flax, later also in combination with other fibers, such as half-linen, PES-linen, viscose-linen, etc.
poplinA trade term for a finely ribbed, plain-weave fabric made of cotton or viscose yarn with a fine, dense warp and a thick, less dense weft setting. Warp:weft ratio 2:1.
Full-twist poplin refers to a fabric in which twist yarn is used in both warp and weft.
In half-twist poplin, the warp consists of twist yarn and the weft of single yarn.
In imitation poplin, only single yarns are used in both warp and weft.
Poplin fabrics, with the appropriate construction, are used as shirting, dress, blouse and coat fabrics, as well as for tarpaulins and technical articles.
Fleece, thermal velorFleece (English for a soft fluffy pile, German: Faserpelz) is the English term for a velour fabric, usually made from polyester, e.g. from recycled PET bottles.
In 1979, the fabric was introduced by Malden Mills Industries Inc. (USA). The company markets its products under the brand Polartec and is considered the world market leader in this field.
Fleece is not a woven fabric but a knitted fabric. During knitting, plush loops are formed, which are then cut open and brushed up. Because fleece is pronounced like the German word „Vlies“ (nonwoven), confusion with nonwoven fabric is common in German-speaking countries.
Fleece is used mainly for warm functional clothing in outdoor sports, such as jackets, trousers, hats, gloves, but also blankets.
Wool / wool blended fabriclinen fabricbrocadeThe term brocade comes from the Latin word broccare (to embroider).
Brocade is a jacquard-patterned, heavy silk fabric interwoven with metallic threads. There are also brocades made entirely of gold and silver threads. Brocade threads usually have a cotton or linen core wrapped with lamé. Today, mainly non-oxidizing effect threads (e.g. Lurex) are used. Some strikingly patterned silk fabrics, especially bedding and furnishing damasks with only occasional metallic weft threads, are also referred to as brocade.
ReversibleFrottee / FrottierTerry fabrics are cotton fabrics fitted with small loops on both sides.
The ground warp is very taut, the pile warp loosely tensioned. Rib weave in a three- or four-pick weave is used as the ground weave. Ribs are usually cross-ribbed fabrics, more rarely length-ribbed. True ribs are created by using rib weaves.
Cross (warp) ribs have high warp and low weft densities; with length (weft) ribs it is the other way round. There are also mixed ribs and diagonal ribs (Adria).
The loops in terry cloth are created because three or four weft picks are not beaten up directly but are held at a distance corresponding to the loop height (via a swinging batten or a movable breast beam). Only after the last preliminary pick are they fully beaten up. In the process, the weft threads slide on the taut ground warp, while the loose pile warp forms loops.
In terry velour fabrics, the loops are cut on one side of the fabric.
Since terry fabrics can easily absorb and release water, they are particularly suitable for swimwear, terry towels, hand towels and similar articles (RAL 304A).
CordonnetLoden(Old High German lodo = coarse cloth)
Originally a term for unfinished cloth or felt. Woolen-spun fabric in plain, tricot or three-shaft twill weave made of wool, occasionally also camel hair and alpaca; in lower (Tirtey) qualities, cotton and shoddy wool are also processed in.
Reinforcements with synthetic fibers and viscose have proven effective. The typical loden character is achieved through fulling, raising, laying in one direction, impregnating and decatizing.
It is dyed or mottled green, brown and grey. Cloth (Bozen) loden has a short pile, while brushed (shepherd's) loden has a long, close-lying pile on the right side. Camel hair loden made from pure camel hair yarns or worsted wool yarn in the warp and camel hair yarn in the weft is light and soft.
ChambrayChambray is the English term for a lightweight cotton or linen fabric with a colored weft in plain weave. Often checked or striped. Used for outerwear and shirting fabrics.
VelvetFabric with a short (2 to 3mm) pile.
Warp velvet is cut wire-woven fabric (wire velvet) or fabric produced by the double-plush weaving process (double velvet) with varying pile position (standing pile, half and fully laid pile). In warp velvet, the pile is formed with the warp, and the pile binding (pile-up and pile-through binding) takes place at the weft thread.
In weft velvet, the pile is formed by pile wefts that are bound off by the warp threads. The pile loops are cut open after weaving. Weft velvet differs from warp velvet through its high weft density and through the pile binding.
Rib velvet = corduroy.
Gabardine(Parisian fashion house Gabardin)
Worsted fabric with a pronounced, steep twill line produced by diagonal weaves (steep twill, rib twill, cord twill) with a denser warp setting (out-of-round).
Pure wool worsted yarns, viscose worsted yarns, worsted warp and woolen weft, blended yarns of wool and synthetics, half-wool and cotton are used.
Gabardine with wide twill lines is called whipcord.
These mostly bare-finished fabrics are made into coats (usually impregnated), suits, sports trousers and dresses.
Coat fabricsFabrics made mainly from wool.
Terms: Bouclé, buckskin, cheviot, covercoat, doeskin, Donegal, eskimo, flausch, floconné, kotzen, loden, ratiné, Shetland, tweed, Ulster, velours.
ChangeantSeersucker(Persian: shirushakar = milk and sugar)
Originally a light-blue/white striped cotton fabric. Today the term refers to a crepe (puckered) effect, produced by the fabric construction (differently tensioned warp threads or the use of yarns that shrink to different degrees), by embossing, or by chemicals (e.g. caustic soda).
Seersucker is also available as a knitted fabric.
Terms: crinkle crepe, craquelé.
Curtains for dayCurtain fabrics are lightweight fabrics for window curtains, in the following types:
A) Woven curtains
1. Bobbinet fabrics: bobbinet tulle, Florentine tulle, lace-woven curtain fabric.
2. Leno fabrics: marquisette, etamine, madras, Bagdad (RAL 305 B)
B) Knitted curtains: raschel curtain fabric, warp-knit fabric
C) Other curtain types: nets, muslin, voile (RAL 307 B).
The material is firm cotton twist yarn or, for light-fastness reasons, polyacrylic and polyester.
nettleOriginally a fabric made from nettle yarns, i.e. spun from stinging-nettle fibers, now a plain-weave cotton fabric that is unbleached, undyed and unfinished (grey/loomstate goods).
There are 4 qualities: coarse cretonne, cretonne, renforcé, calico and raw batiste.
ChenilleA caterpillar-like thread with protruding fibers, created by binding groups of warp threads with weft threads in a preliminary fabric. It is then cut lengthwise in strips on the chenille cutting machine (flat chenille). Round chenille is produced as a finished twist yarn on chenille machines. Depending on the method of production, a distinction is made between woven chenille, twisted chenille, knitted chenille and flock chenille.
Chenille is mostly processed into bath articles and clothing, scarves and carpets.
(Chenille = French for caterpillar)
taffeta(Taffeta: Persian tafteh = woven)
Plain (taffeta) weave fabric made of silk or man-made fibers with a dense warp setting, which creates fine cross ribs. In silk taffeta, the warp consists of organzine, the weft of tram. Among the many types of taffeta, the following may be mentioned:
- Taffeta broché, with embroidery-like figures
- Taffeta changeant, warp and weft shimmering in different colors
- Taffeta chiffon, light quality
- Taffeta chiné, with printed warp
- Taffeta écossais, large check
- Taffeta façonné, jacquard-patterned
- Taffeta faille, finely ribbed
- Taffeta glacé, with glossy finish
- Taffeta imprimé, printed
- Taffeta moiré, with moiré effect
- Taffeta quadrillé, small check
- Taffeta rayé, lengthwise striped
- Taffeta toilé, with voile weft
- Taffeta travers, crosswise striped
Georgette (Georgette Crepe also)(first name of the inventor's daughter)
Lightweight, plain-weave fabric with a sandy handle and crimped surface, made of silk, viscose filament, wool, cotton.
The fabric gets its character from very tightly twisted warp and weft yarn (crepon), with 2 threads of Z-twist alternating with 2 threads of S-twist.
Georgette (also crêpe Georgette) receives additional designations depending on the patterning, such as cloqué, façonné, frotté, pompon, quadrillé, rayé and reversible.
NylonNylon was originally the brand name of E.I. du Pont de Nemours & Co. Inc., USA, for polyamide 6.6 (inventor W.H. Carothers, 1935). Today it is the generic name, with trailing numbers identifying the various types.
ChiffonChiffon refers to fine-threaded, delicate, transparent, soft fabrics in a taffeta weave made of grège or viscose filament.
table linenlinen halfFabric with a cotton warp and linen weft, where the linen content must be at least 40%.
OrgandyOpalized cotton or man-made fiber batiste, dyed or printed in delicate shades, often also embossed (organdy gaufré). |
